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Also, shoes and boots these, until then reserved for chivalry began to be styled with higher heels. Phillip II (1527-1598), King of Spain, 1554-58. Oil on wood; 59.7 x 48.3 cm. They restricted natural movement with their multiple layers, extensive decoration, and sheer quantity of material. on loan from private collection. His paned trunk hose are bombasted (padded) and his doublet sleeves narrow and rather plain. But the most common pieces that can be frequently seen during cultural parades, festivals, and events are worn by the matadors and flamenco dancers. Jerkins were worn by both men and boys but by the late 1500s were also popular with women.. Francisco De Goya: The Duchess of Alba (1797) The clothing was an important element in the idiosyncrasy of the soldier, and it seems that, as soon as they saved enough money, they got rid of the boring munition clothes to obtain colorful clothing according to their condition. London: National Gallery, NG1023. In parallel, a new garment appeared, the casaca (casaque), with French roots and that could be long up to something beyond the waist as was usual in the middle of the century or up to the knees, in which case it was called chamberga. A portrait of Philp II with his wife Mary I of England shows him again in a black jerkin with long vertical open seams (Fig. 3) wears a dark gown which contrasts with her elaborate silver and gold brocade sleeves. The costume she designed was enthusiastically advocated by her friend Amelia Jenks Bloomer, a journalist and writer. Triunfo Del Emperador Maximiliano I, Rey de Hungra, Dalmacia y Croacia, Archiduque de Austria, 1501. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress. Neither wears a helmet, but we do observe some lobster among the accessories, from which we can deduce that the most complete armor, as well as heavier helmets and closed burgonets, more bulky, were relegated, from the end of the 1630s, to mere aesthetic ornaments for portraits. It was an ode to the classic Spanish rich textiles and traditional embroidery worn by the aristocracy of the golden age.